![]() When my grandfather took the family to Uganda to build a business, the spirit of Gujarat stayed with them. I’ve not even mentioned the family favourite: gram flour fudge (don’t knock it till you’ve tried it: it’s a sweet of the deepest and most satisfying kind). ![]() Then there’s the seductively smooth kadhi – a household staple of hot yoghurt and chickpea soup (in which tender okra is often submerged) and addictive crunchy snacks such as bhajis and gathiya. Take chickpea flour, for example – an innocuous and cheap supermarket ingredient, but with a Gujarati sleight of hand it is transformed into a variety of dishes of different textures and forms – from the gossamer-like chickpea bread dhokla studded with sesame and mustard seeds, to a silken handkerchief-like pasta called khandvi. It’s a food lab of the most magnificent proportions.The kind that Rene Redzepi and Ferran Adria could only dream of, where each ingredient has been tested, cooked and stretched to its limits over many years. You can see it on the streets, in homes, restaurants and temples. ![]() This limitation has encouraged constant creativity. Meera Sodha: ‘The spirit of Gujarat exists in most aspects of my daily life: I think like a Gujarati, I speak Gujarati and day in, day out, I cook Gujarati food.’ Photograph: Elena Heatherwick/Guardian
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